Bokashi Bouquet dress for Trenna

Made from the Michael Miller fabric "Bokashi Bouquet" with the Burda #6939 pattern for Trenna.  The model loved the dress so much that she wanted to keep it to wear to her wedding supper.  Quite the compliment, I think.  The model is 5'11" and it was the perfect length - I just made it according to the pattern, so if you make this, and you don't happen to be quite that tall, you may want to adjust the length. ;-)  Also, the front panel is wider than 45" fabric.  You can see where we had to piece the front if you look carefully, though I must say, we did a good job.  I would suggest that you have 60" wide fabric if you make this.

Urban Grit and Rouge et Noir - Trenna's photoshoot pictures

 I take no credit for the fabulous photography or any other design elements.  Trenna Travis Design Studio gets all the credit.  It's just so much fun to see the things you make appear in print.

In the Urban Grit line by Michael Miller fabrics, Emerald made the pants made with Mini Houndstooth in black and white with a black stripe of the cotton cotour fabric.  Emerald also made the jacket in the Big Time Houndstooth of neutral colors.  I made the pillow cases in the medium sized neutral Everyday Houndstooth and the mini gray and white houndstooth.  I made the quilt top for the houndstooth quilt in cotton couture fabric and Meredith quilted and bound it.






For the Rouge et Noir line I made the dress in the Everyday (medium sized) Houndstooth in black and white.

Black and White Houndstooth Dress

Here is the dress I made from the Michael Miller Rouge et Noir line of fabric in a medium sized, black and white houndstooth.  The pattern was Burda #7179.  Here again, I know that the picture of it on a hanger doesn't do it justice, but I plan on posting some of the pictures Trenna sent me of this photo shoot at the beginning of next week.

Houndstooth Jacket and Pants for Trenna

The jacket and pants were both made by Emerald.  The fabric is from Michael Miller's Urban Grit line and the pattern used for both of these was from New Look #6231.  However, the black stripe down the side of the slacks were a modification of the pattern.

I know, I know.  How good they look is hard to see with them hanging on a hanger, but just stay tuned and next week I'll post some pictures that Trenna sent me of the photo shoot.  They look FABULOUS!!!!

Birds and Butterflies Shirt for Trenna

These past two weeks, especially the last week (since the first one was the kid's spring break) was filled with sewing for Trenna.  Here is a Birds, Butterflies and Flowers shirt we did.  The Michael Miller fabric used was called "At the Conservatory."  The pattern was Vogue #V8907.  Two pictures to show you the front and back of the long shirt.  (My girls thought it was a dress for them).

 

Tennis Bag and Skirt for Trenna

I didn't get any posts up last week.  It was spring break for the kids, I substitute taught a sewing class for a friend who is expecting and needing to take it easy for a bit, and of course, there was lots to do for Trenna.  Here's the first thing I made - a tennis bag made from Michael Miller's new houndstooth fabrics with Butterick Patterns B5934.

If you want to make this, please note that there's an error in the pattern says that you need to cut two each of the fabric, and two interfacing pieces of the pattern which makes up the front and back of the bag.  This is not true.  You need one fabric, one iron on interfacing and one heavy sew-in interfacing.  I followed the pattern and now I have an extra half bag prepared.  I'll have to get myself some lining and strap fabric and make myself a houndstooth bag.

It is lined in a medium size houndstooth in a coordinating navy.

 Meredith, a friend of mine that just began sewing with us to help Trenna out, made the coordinating tennis skirt.  This is from a Burda young fashion, pattern #8175.

March/April Quilt

Here's the log cabin wall hanging quilt for either March or April (which ever one doesn't have Easter that year).

 It is hand quilted - stitch in the ditch - along the zigzag diagonal lines.  This in one I really like.  For being a beginner when I made it, I'm really proud of the way it turned out. 

Tote Bag

Another item for Trenna with the Michael Miller Sultana line of fabric.  Emerald made this tote bag.  Talk about carrying your groceries home in style!

Apron

Another item for Trenna made at the beginning of February.  Here is an apron I made from the Michael Miller Sultana line of fabric.  After 7 kids, I've long since lost my modeling figure, so just pretend I have a svelte dancer's body. (hehehe)

Here it is laid on the table and a close up of the fabric.

How to Make an Apron - Tutorial

My apologies for the length of the blog today, but I thought it would be easier if the whole tutorial is all together. Unfortunately I forgot to start taking pictures right away, but hopefully there are enough to help you.  If you have questions, feel free to ask.

First thing is to cut out your apron. Begin with a rectangle.  I like the apron to cover more of me because I'm such a messy chef so I use 33.5"h x 30.5"w for an adult and 22-24"h x 14-18"w for a child.  Really it's very forgiving.  You could go bigger or smaller to fit your needs or the material you have to work with. For these, I was up-cycling a curtain to make matching aprons for the party favor at my 8 year old's birthday party.  That is why the bottom is already hemmed.  Usually I would do the bottom hem last, but, oh well.

Fold the fabric in half lengthwise so when you cut the curves out of the top corners, they will be symmetrical.  I want the sides to be 22" for an adult and 16-18" for a child, so measure and put a mark there on the edge the correct distance up from the bottom.  Place another mark 4.25" from the center fold across the top.  Draw a curve connecting the two marks then cut.  It should look something like this.

Next you will need to cut straps.  Two for the ties and one for the neck.  The neck strap I cut one at 3"x25" and for the ties I cut two at 2"x 30-33"  The ties will be plenty long for a child or slender person to wrap around and tie in the front.  The neck strap will also be plenty big so for those who like it a little tighter can either make the neck strap smaller or, my preference is to tie a knot in it.  This allows it to grow with me if need be, or to not pull on the back of my neck (which I hate). Another option is to cut two pieces for neck strap.  If doing so, cut at 3"x21".

You will also need to cut a small lining for the bib.  Lay an approximately 4"x13" (3"x9" child size) strip of fabric down and center the apron bib with the small strip, taking care to line up the top of the bib with the top of the 4x13" (3x9") piece.  Using your apron as your pattern, cut the 4x13" (3x9") piece to match the apron bib.  Hem the bottom of the lining piece using a 1/4" rolled hem. (If you are not comfortable eyeballing this, fold up 1/4" and press, fold it again and press. Then sew close to the rolled edge.  This will not be seen as you are wearing it, so no worries).

Sewing the straps:  Iron each of the cut pieces in half lengthwise.  Fold the raw edges in to the center crease and press again.  For the neck strap, leave the raw edges as is on the short ends and sew along the long side.  For the ties, unfold one short side, fold the raw edges in fold back along the creases and sew, first the short side, pivot at the corner and then sew along the length of the side.  Repeat for second tie.  If using ties for the neck strap, sew closed in the same manner as the ties.





Measure 1/2" from the left and right edges, matching the raw edges of the strap to the top edge of the apron and pin straps to the front of the apron.  Place the bib lining face down, right sides together with the straps in between, lining up all edges.  Remove the pins underneath and pin on top of your fabric sandwich.

If using one neck strap, make sure that the strap is not twisted when you pin/sew it down.  I like the side that is on the outside on the left to also be on the outside on the right.

 Sew bib lining to the apron using a 3/8" seam allowance.  I like to back stitch across to ties to secure them better.  Then zigzag along the edges to finish the edge.  I zigzag along the entire curved edge.

Clip your corners.  Take care not to get closer than 1/8" from your sewn edge.













Turn right side out.

 Next do a 1/4" rolled hem along both straight sides.  This is done in the same manner as described for the bib lining.  You can either eyeball it, or press first.  Whichever you prefer.

 Now comes the fun part.

Place a tie 1/4" below the curved edge with the raw edge of the tie pointing toward the center of the apron. 

 Fold raw, curved edge of the apron over the top of the tie.

 Fold again and hold carefully.  Pin if you need to.

 Begin sewing.  I like to secure that point well, back stitching as well as pivoting the fabric and sewing along the edge seam line as well.  Nearly all the pressure on the apron will be at that point, so I don't want it ripping out.  Sew along the curved edge, folding the raw edges under as you go (fold and fold again), taking a 1/4" hem the whole way.

 When you get the to the bib lining, continue sewing.  It will now be top stitching the lining and the front.  Pivot at the corners.  Pivoting is best done by stopping with the needle down, lifting up the presser foot, turning the fabric, putting the presser foot down and continue sewing.

When you get to the end of the bib lining, continue rolling the hem of the other curved side and securing the tie in the same manner as before.

You're almost done.

Now would be a good time to hem the bottom.  I didn't show that because as I said, it was done for me. ;-)

Last thing is to sew along your seam line of the bib lining so it stays in place as well as adding extra strength to the bib.  I like to finish it off by embroidering the child's name on the thick part of the apron.