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Monday, March 3, 2014

How to Make an Apron - Tutorial

My apologies for the length of the blog today, but I thought it would be easier if the whole tutorial is all together. Unfortunately I forgot to start taking pictures right away, but hopefully there are enough to help you.  If you have questions, feel free to ask.

First thing is to cut out your apron. Begin with a rectangle.  I like the apron to cover more of me because I'm such a messy chef so I use 33.5"h x 30.5"w for an adult and 22-24"h x 14-18"w for a child.  Really it's very forgiving.  You could go bigger or smaller to fit your needs or the material you have to work with. For these, I was up-cycling a curtain to make matching aprons for the party favor at my 8 year old's birthday party.  That is why the bottom is already hemmed.  Usually I would do the bottom hem last, but, oh well.

Fold the fabric in half lengthwise so when you cut the curves out of the top corners, they will be symmetrical.  I want the sides to be 22" for an adult and 16-18" for a child, so measure and put a mark there on the edge the correct distance up from the bottom.  Place another mark 4.25" from the center fold across the top.  Draw a curve connecting the two marks then cut.  It should look something like this.

Next you will need to cut straps.  Two for the ties and one for the neck.  The neck strap I cut one at 3"x25" and for the ties I cut two at 2"x 30-33"  The ties will be plenty long for a child or slender person to wrap around and tie in the front.  The neck strap will also be plenty big so for those who like it a little tighter can either make the neck strap smaller or, my preference is to tie a knot in it.  This allows it to grow with me if need be, or to not pull on the back of my neck (which I hate). Another option is to cut two pieces for neck strap.  If doing so, cut at 3"x21".

You will also need to cut a small lining for the bib.  Lay an approximately 4"x13" (3"x9" child size) strip of fabric down and center the apron bib with the small strip, taking care to line up the top of the bib with the top of the 4x13" (3x9") piece.  Using your apron as your pattern, cut the 4x13" (3x9") piece to match the apron bib.  Hem the bottom of the lining piece using a 1/4" rolled hem. (If you are not comfortable eyeballing this, fold up 1/4" and press, fold it again and press. Then sew close to the rolled edge.  This will not be seen as you are wearing it, so no worries).

Sewing the straps:  Iron each of the cut pieces in half lengthwise.  Fold the raw edges in to the center crease and press again.  For the neck strap, leave the raw edges as is on the short ends and sew along the long side.  For the ties, unfold one short side, fold the raw edges in fold back along the creases and sew, first the short side, pivot at the corner and then sew along the length of the side.  Repeat for second tie.  If using ties for the neck strap, sew closed in the same manner as the ties.





Measure 1/2" from the left and right edges, matching the raw edges of the strap to the top edge of the apron and pin straps to the front of the apron.  Place the bib lining face down, right sides together with the straps in between, lining up all edges.  Remove the pins underneath and pin on top of your fabric sandwich.

If using one neck strap, make sure that the strap is not twisted when you pin/sew it down.  I like the side that is on the outside on the left to also be on the outside on the right.
 Sew bib lining to the apron using a 3/8" seam allowance.  I like to back stitch across to ties to secure them better.  Then zigzag along the edges to finish the edge.  I zigzag along the entire curved edge.


Clip your corners.  Take care not to get closer than 1/8" from your sewn edge.













Turn right side out.

 Next do a 1/4" rolled hem along both straight sides.  This is done in the same manner as described for the bib lining.  You can either eyeball it, or press first.  Whichever you prefer.

 Now comes the fun part.

Place a tie 1/4" below the curved edge with the raw edge of the tie pointing toward the center of the apron. 
 Fold raw, curved edge of the apron over the top of the tie.
 Fold again and hold carefully.  Pin if you need to.
 Begin sewing.  I like to secure that point well, back stitching as well as pivoting the fabric and sewing along the edge seam line as well.  Nearly all the pressure on the apron will be at that point, so I don't want it ripping out.  Sew along the curved edge, folding the raw edges under as you go (fold and fold again), taking a 1/4" hem the whole way.
 When you get the to the bib lining, continue sewing.  It will now be top stitching the lining and the front.  Pivot at the corners.  Pivoting is best done by stopping with the needle down, lifting up the presser foot, turning the fabric, putting the presser foot down and continue sewing.

When you get to the end of the bib lining, continue rolling the hem of the other curved side and securing the tie in the same manner as before.

You're almost done.

Now would be a good time to hem the bottom.  I didn't show that because as I said, it was done for me. ;-)
Last thing is to sew along your seam line of the bib lining so it stays in place as well as adding extra strength to the bib.  I like to finish it off by embroidering the child's name on the thick part of the apron. 

6 comments:

  1. Thanks so much for this tutorial. I have become obsessed with aprons, so I might even be brave enough to try making one now!

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    1. Go for it! You can do it! If you ever need help along the way, please shoot me an e-mail. This is a simple pattern which is a good way to start. Let me know how it turns out.

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  2. I will be making my first apron and the tutorial is great!

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  3. What is the best fabric to use?

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    1. Honestly, I would say use what you want/like/have and that washes easily. There are some that would have a strong opinion one way or the other, but I'm all for making do.

      I do a lot with cotton fabrics. Of the aprons we use regularly, they are cotton or cotton/poly blend. The advantage to cotton is it doesn't melt when something burning hits it (which has never happened to me yet). The advantage to a cotton/poly is it doesn't get all wrinkly after washing. Thicker fabric wears better but is harder to sew through the areas with lots of layers.

      In that last picture, Monica's is reversible with 2 quilter's cotton fabric. Sterling's is reversible with quilter's cotton on one side and a thicker, courser weave on the other. Fiona's is one layer of quilter's cotton. Karina's is a cotton/poly blend - same thickness as quilter's cotton. Virginia and Emerald's I'm not sure exactly what it is. It was some thicker fabric (thicker than quilter's cotton, not as thick as Duck Cloth or denim) that felt like it would make a good apron I had lying around.

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