Some time ago, Trenna asked me to make a handbag for a photo shoot. There was no pattern, just the fabric and some handles she had purchased. "I want it about this size." So here is the process I took for making a handbag without a pattern.
1. I cut from the fabric a 22" piece (still 44" wide).
2. After cutting off the selvage, I cut it so that I had 2 identical pieces that were 22" x 16". All seam allowances were 1/2". I went this way because of the direction of the pattern. To save on fabric, you could make it a little smaller and get two pieces out of a 16" width of fabric cut.
3. From the left over fabric, I cut a 2" strip that was at least 12" long. That strip was then sub-cut into 4 pieces, each 3" x 2".
4. Fold each of those 4 pieces in half lengthwise (so they measure 3" x 1") and iron. Unfold then fold the raw edges into the center fold line and press again. You should then have 4 pieces that fold, with raw edges in, to 3" x 1/2" size.
5. Sew close to the edge on each of the 4 pieces.
6. Next cut 1 piece of fusible batting to the same size as your fabric pieces (16" x 22").
7. Following the manufacturer's directions, fuse the batting to the outside piece of fabric.
8. Lay your purse with the outside fabric right side up on the table. (This is the fabric that has the fusible batting attached to it). Using a ruler, position the little strips you just made so they are centered on the purse body as well as being the exact width of the handles. It was approximately 4.5" away from the edge, but measure yours and be precise. Repeat for opposite side of the bag.
9. Baste the strips in place. Thread the strips through the proper place on the handle and sew. Do for both handles.
10. My machine has a way to decrease the amount of pressure down on the foot. If you have this feature, decrease - I went down to the lowest on my machine, but do what works best on yours. This will help prevent the fabrics and batting from shifting and not staying lined up.
If you don't have this feature, you may wish to baste things together before sewing so that if things shift, you can unpick more easily. Also, hold on to the fabric in front of, and behind the foot to have equal tension on the upper and lower fabrics and help feed them through more evenly.
11. Fold the bag in half with both tops and strap pieces matching on the top. Pin to keep them lined up straight.
12. Sew side seams using a 1/2" seam allowance. (In the picture you see two seams. That is because I had basted the batting to the fabric previously with a 3/8" seam to help keep it from shifting).
Also, sew the side seams on the fabric that will be the lining using a 1/2" seam allowance.
13. With the folded edge at the bottom, and the open top farthest away from you and using your ruler, cut a 2" square from the bottom 2 corner. This 2" square needs to be measured from the seam on the side and from the fold on the bottom.
Therefore, my square is actually a rectangle that is 2.5" on the top and 2" on the side which takes into consideration the 1/2" seams on the side. If your seams are not precisely 1/2", make sure you are measuring the 2" from the seam, not the edge.
Repeat for bottom corners on both the outside fabric as well as lining fabric.
14. Box the corners of the lining by pinching the front and back of the fabric right at the cut out corner in the center and pull out. This will bring the side seam and the fold on the bottom together. Make sure it lines up straight and sew across the cut edge using a 1/2" seam and having the side seam open as shown in the photo.
15. Repeat for the outside fabric to box the corners.
16. The bottom of the bag should now be squared and the bag should look something like this.
Now comes the tricky part.
17. With the outside of the bag right side out (as in the photo above) and the lining inside out, put the lining on the outside of the bag, as shown in the picture to the right. Line up edge seams and pin well.
18. Sew most of the way around, leaving the side from one handle to the next open for turning.
For this, I began at the strap of one handle and sewed, first securing that by back stitching. Continue sewing, back stitching at each handle to secure it. When you reach the 4th handle strap and have secured it, stop. Because the handles are not flexible, you need more space for turning it right side out than if they were flexible handles.
19. Now turn the bag right side out through the opening you have. With the stiff handles this is a bit tricky, but you can do it.
20. Next sew the opening closed and top stitch around the top of the bag at the same time. Here I sewed about 1/4" from the edge.
21. Because the top stitching was 1/4" from the edge, the area that I had turned the bag right side out through gapped. I could have done another top stitch closer to the edge to fix this, but instead I opted to hand stitch - using a ladder stitch, to close the gap and make that open invisible.
22. All Done. Pictures to show you both sides.
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